Railay Beach, Phra Nang

I've visited Phra Nang, Thailand three times now. Each time I go there it seems to get a bit more developed and a bit more expensive. However, in spite of that, it has some of the most beautiful and spectacular coastal scenery in the world.

I'd gone there for the first time on the way back from Europe to New Zealand. My visit had only been for just over a week, but the place had left a lasting impression on me. The plan was to do some rock climbing on the spectacular limestone sea cliffs in the area, to hang out on the beach, to relax and to party a bit. I'd recently returned from a climbing expedition to the Yukon in Arctic Canada, so a little bit of hedonism had been well earned.

Approaching by long-tailed boat

The centre of attraction for the party animal is Ya-Ya's bar. Stoned and hung-over holidaymakers and long term travellers drift in and out throughout the day. Night time gets warmed up about 9 O'Clock as the effects of reggae music and various toxins become established in young impressionable bodies. The dreadlocked bar staff seem to have a permanent grin stamped on their faces. With the tepid waters of the Andaman Sea lapping a few feet from the bar, and an endless stream of young nubile women for them to flirt with, who can blame them.
The area provides a number of outdoor adventures for those who still have some braincells left in the morning. The spectacular cliffs which rise above the sandy beaches provide great rock-climbing on beautiful pocketed limestone, with grades from French 5 to 8b. There is also good scuba diving in the area (there are a couple of dive schools here), and the calm waters of the Anadaman Sea are perfect for low-stress sea kayaking.

The Buddist Shrine in the Princess Cave

Since roads cannot penetrate the fortress-like cliffs, the area is only accessible by boat. Bungalows and cafes are tightly packed in the narrow isthmus. Walking down the track past the exclusive Dusit resort leads you through a grotto of bizarre stalagtites and vines, with the occasional cheeky monkeys to taunt you. A must do for any visitor is to walk up to the lagoon that is hidden in these cliffs. Another on the list is the huge cave that links Railay Beach and Sunshine Beach. The cathedral-like chambers squeak with the sound of bats.

Bizarre and colourful statagtites drape the cliffs

My first visit to Phra Nang was in the rainy season, but in fact it hardly rained at all. However, the 30 degree temperatures and tropical humidity made physical exertion very difficult. Some days were so hot and humid we just had to hang out on the beach and go swimming. It was hell.
As a climbing area it lacks a bit in the number of climbs, but the quality and character are hard to beat. The cliffs are often overhanging, and draped in bizarre Stalagtite formations. These often can be used to assist in an otherwise desperate situation. One climb in particular - Stalagosaurous (6a) climbs a 30 degree overhanging wall at such an easy grade by using free-hanging stalagtites to shimmy up. You can only hope they are well attached!

Another classic at this grade is 'The King and I', a two pitch climb whose second pitch is a magnificent varied line that is almost a full 50m rope length.

Railay Beach

At Christmas, the height of the high season, it can be very hard to find accomodation. This is a good time to avoid unless you are a confirmed party fiend. The drone of the long-tailed boats and their drivers touting for business is a constant distraction.
With the new international airport at Krabi just opening, the area will be very accessible to Westerners. I can't help feeling this will spoil the place, and drive prices beyond the reach of the traveller and impecunious climber.

© Andy Scrase 1999